TUSCAN CLASSICS
with David Gleave MW
Wines tasted:
Villa di Capezzana, Carmignano, Tenuta di Capezzana 1999
Montesodi, Chianti Rufina, Marchesi de' Frescobaldi 2000
I Sodi di San Niccolò, Castellare di Castellina 1998
Cepparello, Isole e Olena 1999
Chianti Classico, Castello di Brolio 1999
Flaccianello della Pieve, Tenuta Fontodi 1997
Vigneto Rancia, Chianti Classico Riserva, Felsina Berardenga 1997
Brunello di Montalcino, Villa Poggio Salvi 1997
Desiderio, Avignonesi 1998
Ornellaia 1997
Sassicaia 1997
Vin Santo del Chianti Rufina, Selvapiana 1997
Introducing the Tuscan Classics Masterclass, David Gleave MW heralded Tuscany as 'the most exciting, dynamic wine-producing region in the world'. High praise indeed, but richly deserved according to Gleave, who paid tribute to the 'amazing progress' made by the region's winemakers over the last twenty years.
In particular, Gleave lauded the liberal nature of Tuscan authorities, who, unlike their Bordelais counterparts, allow any grape variety to be used in the blend. The result, claimed Gleave, has seen Tuscany's status as a producer of Cabernet Sauvignon equal to that of Margaret River or Napa Valley.
That said, there were only two Cabernet-dominated wines in the masterclass, where, as expected, Sangiovese was to the fore. Both were well received, notably the 1997 Ornellaia. This was a stroke more forward than the Sassicaia. Both are likely to age well.
Of the six Chianti Classicos tasted, the 1999 from the resurgent Castello di Brolio came in for particular praise, thanks to its depth and weight, plus a fine tannic/oak balance which many felt would see the wine develop well.
Wine has been produced at this estate for 850 years, and Gleave stressed how little had changed in terms of techniques and values in Tuscan winemaking during that time. The crucial exception, he noted, was the experimental approach taken to Sangiovese by the Antinori family in the late 1960s. To that, argued Gleave, today's recognised Tuscan producers owed their status. 'Ten of fifteen years ago, this masterclass would have been entitled, 'Up-and-coming Tuscans',' he said. 'Today, it is 'Tuscan Classics'.'
Guy Woodward
STARS AND DISCOVERIES OF THE NEW ITALY
With Michael Palij MW
Wines tasted:
Produttori San Michele All'Appiano, Sant Valentin Pinot Grigio 2000
Inama, Vignetti di Foscarino Soave Classico Superiore 2000
Planeta, Cometa 2001; Capichera, Vendemmia Tardiva 2001
Casa Girelli, Virtuoso Primitivo di Puglia 2000
Foradori, Granato 2001
Castello di Bossi, Girolamo 1999
Feudi di San Gregorio, Patrimo 2001
Luciano di Sandrone, Pemol 2000
La Spinetta, Pin 2000
Cusumano, Noa 2001
Caprai, 25 Anni Sagratino 2000
'Fifteen years ago, a day like today, showcasing great wines from all over Italy, wouldn't have been possible,' said Michael Palij MW as he opened the second masterclass of the Encounter. 'In the past, mass–produced Chianti and Soave earned Italy a reputation for bad wine as they were churned out to satisfy demand.
'Luckily the last two decades have seen a huge rise in quality. This is partly due to the fact that domestic consumption in Italy fell from 150 litres per person per year in 1975 to just 75 litres in 1995 – so the export market has become crucial. Today Italy is about far more than Chianti in wicker bottle holders, and the number of good wines sold here at above the £4.50 mark is increasig steadily.'
Palij chose a selection of wines to illustrate the most exciting developments in Italy. Of the 12 wines on show, almost half were from the south of Italy, demonstrating that great wine can be found below Tuscany. Planeta's Cometa, made in Sicily from the indigenous Fiano grape, is a great example of what can be done, he said. 'Sicily produces more wine than Australia,' he said, 'but most is bulk wine sent to northern Europe, and until recently there was no focus on terroir.'
Even in more established areas, winemaking hasn't stood still. 'In 1990, producers just didn't have the technology that they have today,' he reminded the audience. 'Throughout the length of the country, it just gets better and better. 'Altitude is a key bonus. French wine regions may have their vines on hillsides too, but they are lower. The cooling effect of Italy's higher vineyards preserves the acidity perfectly.'
Palij summed up by defining the magical quality that makes Italian wine so special. 'Italian wine just refuses to conform to preconceived ideas of what wine should be about. It's that constant challenge that's so appealing.'
Amy Wislocki
MARCHESI ANTINORI
with Marchese Piero Antinori
Wines tasted:
Cervaro 2000
Cervaro 1996
Cervaro 1990
Tignanello 2000
Tignanello 1999
Tignanello 1986
Guado al Tasso 2000
Guado al Tasso 1997
Solaia 1999
Solaia 1997
Solaia 1990
There have been two stages of Italian wine, Marchese Piero Antinori told a packed (and rapt) house. The first lasted several thousand years, and the second the last three decades.
'Tradition can be heavy and intimidating, but if the right, important values were passed on, I thought we could improve the wines and the image of Tuscany, and Italy. Today, Tuscany continues to surprise us, as in the Bolgheri region; the vines seem to be happy there, no talk of suffering for their art!'
He began what he called a look at the Italian scenario with a white: three vintages (2000, 1996, and 1990) of Cervaro della Sala, a barrel-fermented, nicely rounded blend of mostly Chardonnay and a little Grechetto, from vineyards near Orvieto, in Umbria. The Grechetto adds some firm acidity and what he called 'a local element.'
Tignanello, from 2000, 1999, 1986, a blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, represented 'class and great personality. It's a real Tuscan,' he said with pride, admitting an 'emotional linkage' with the wine that started the super-Tuscan trend.
Guado al Tasso 2000 and 1997 is from Bolgheri, next to the vineyards of Sassacaia and Ornellaia, a blend mostly of Cabernets and Merlot, with a little Syrah. He said it reflected the terroir so well they called it the 'Bolgheri blend,' rather than a Bordeaux blend.
Solaia 1999, 1997, 1990 is from the Chianti Classico zone, a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Sangiovese, 'not an open book, philosophical and more austere than Guado al Tasso, which is more friendly.' The three here were also strikingly elegant, complex and concentrated.
Antinori concluded with a rumination on globalisation, and a hope that it won't lead to uniformity. 'There are already a lot of similarities,' he said ruefully, before cheering the crowd with a thought he had already proven. 'There is always something to learn from fine wine; it's part of the fun.'
Brian St Pierre
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