GREAT CABERNET SAUVIGNON OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA
with Jancis Robinson, Bob Baker (Vasse Felix), Andrew Moore (Xanadu), Gavin Berry (Plantagenet) and Mike Kerrigan (Howard Park)
Wines tasted:
Cullen Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 1999
Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 1999
Pierro Cabernet Sauvignon 1999
Plantagenet Mount Barker Cabernet Sauvignon 1999
Vasse Felix Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 1999
Devil's Lair Cabernet Sauvignon 1998
Xanadu Lagan Estate Cabernet Reserve 1998
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 1996
Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon 1995
Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon 1994
'Margaret River is my idea of heaven,' Jancis Robinson said, introducing a quartet of winemakers – Bob Baker of Vasse Felix, Andrew Moore of Xanadu, Gavin Berry of Plantagenet and Mike Kerrigan of Howard Park.
After tasting what Robinson called the 'grandees of Margaret River' - Cullen, Moss Wood, Pierro and Vasse Felix – the panel gave its verdict.
Robinson said Cullen reminded her of Margaux, being 'understated, with silky tannins and a dry neat finish.' Kerrigan said he was envious of Cullen. 'It's so complete from an early age – Plantagenet looks like an ugly duckling beside it.' The Moss Wood was 'Latour – destined for a long life,' while Robinson said Pierro, with its hint of herbaciousness, was 'a little awkward, but I'm sure it will come into its own.' The Vasse Felix 'had structure and dancing aroma.'
Moving further south, Mike Kerrigan said that one should look for typical earthy, dusty characters in the wines ('you never get big, inky blockbusters'). Andrew Moore said that the 1998 Xanadu Langan Cabernet Reserve was 'one of the best reserve wines made.'
The panel considered the wines from the south of Margaret River 'less obvious.' The Devil's Lair, Robinson said, was 'impressive, with red velvet smothering the palate. It's tight, and in there for the long run.' The Leeuwin, in contrast, 'seems more old-fashioned, with grainier tannins. Two years on, I think they are probably managing the tannins in a more sophisticated manner.'
The panel agreed the Cape Mentelle, although seven years old, still had a lot of life in it. 'I wouldn't choose to drink it now,' said one panel member. The last wine, Howard Park's 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon, was introduced by Mike Kerrigan. 'This was my first vintage at Howard Park,' he said, 'and I thought they were all going to be like that.'
'It's a lovely mature wine,' Robinson said, 'with quite a bit of acid still.'
The Masterclass ended with questions from the audience. Which vintages should we look out for, asked one member. Gavin Berry: 'It's not as important as it is in Europe – there is more consistency from year to year.' When they have a difficult year, he added, they don't release the wine. He said the 1997 and 2000 were 'tough years,' but generally one should 'buy with confidence – most vintages in Margaret River are varying degrees of great.'
Mike Kerrigan summed up the winemakers' attitude towards the grapes they were lucky enough to make into wine. 'We just try not to bugger up good fruit,' he said, to laughter from the audience. Adam Lechmere
TOMORROW'S AUSTRALIAN CLASSICS
with Max Allen
Wines tasted:
Gary Crittenden l'Arneis 2001
McWilliam's Regional Collection Riverina Tyrian 2000
Henschke Littlehampton Innes Pinot Gris 2001
Chevriot Yea Valley Chardonnay 2000
Yalumba Virgilius Viognier Eden Valley 2000
Chesnut Grove Merlot 1999
Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2001
Pipers Brook Vineyard Tasmania Pirie Sparkling 1996
Mitchelton Airstrip Marsanne-Roussanne-Viognier 2000
Charles Melton Wines Rose of Virginia
Panorama Vineyard Pinot Noir 2000
Chain of Ponds Amadeus Cabernet Sauvignon 1999
Jasper Hill Vineyard Georgia's Paddock Shiraz 2000
'I want to get across the idea of potential – that we are only just beginning to see the good wines that Australia is capable of,' began Max Allen, explaining that he'd chosen 13 wines to show the new directions that Australian winemakers are moving in – using different varieties, experimental cuvées and/or those from lesser-known regions.
He set out three main aims for the Masterclass: - to look at tomorrow's most promising trends rather than predict the next round of (famous and unobtainable) 'cult' wines. - to dispel the myth that Australia is only about standardisation from a few big companies (it's more about winemakers concentrating on quality - mostly small, though a few big companies as well). - and to demonstrate that quality and experimentation does not have to mean expensive. It's true that some wines are very high priced, he said, but other great wines are nearer the £5 mark.
Gary Crittenden's l'Arneis 2001, for example, is made from a grape more associated with Italy than Australia, while the McWilliam's Regional Collection Riverina Tyrian is a new Cabernet Sauvignon cross. Allen pointed out that though the McWilliam's is a product of a large company, the grapes are sourced from an unlikely 'experimental' region, and the wine is readily affordable, at around a fiver.
Henschke's Littlehampton Innes Pinot Gris was quite Alsatian like in quality – full of honey and white nut, with a viscous, weighty body and highish alcohol and acidity. Allen then asked us to taste the Chevriot Yea Valley Chardonnay, to demostrate the level of restraint that's achievable (alongside the more typical ripe fruit flavours) from Australia's cooler Yarra Valley region in Central Victoria.
Viognier is not new to Yalumba, but the Yalumba Virgilius Viognier Eden Valley is still showing the way, now using notably less oak to allow for better fruit expression. Its marketing is also pushing the idea that this is a wine to be drunk now now cellared for years to come.
The Chesnut Grove Merlot 1999 was all savoury ripe plums, chocolate and the kind of grainy tannins Saint-Emilions pray for. Moving up in to the AU$50-60 range (€30-36.5), the Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2001 was a wonderful, heady-perfumed rich Shiraz wine – 'on a par with Northern Rhône', suggested Allen. Finally, the Jasper Hill Vineyard Georgia's Paddock Shiraz showed all the delights of a coolish climate, with ripe Shiraz and lots of new oak – packed with power but still showing agreeable restraint. 'I do have a bias,' admitted Allen, 'this wine is from Heathcote, Central Victoria, the region where I would plant vines given the choice.' Catharine Lowe
LANGTON'S CLASSIFICATION - AUSTRALIA'S MOST COLLECTABLE WINES
with Andrew Caillard MW
Wines tasted:
Petaluma Riesling 2001 (Excellent) Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2001 (Outstanding) Tyrell's Vat 1 Semillon 1995 (Excellent) Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 1999 (Exceptional) Pierro Chardonnay 1999 (Outstanding) Orlando St Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (Distinguished) Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon 1996 (Outstanding) Penfold's Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 (Exceptional) Mount Langi Ghiran Langi Shiraz 1998 (Excellent) Elderton Command Shiraz 1998 (Excellent) Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 1996 (Exceptional) Penfold's Bin 95 Grange Shiraz 1996 (Exceptional)
'Until the mid-80s, when Langton's was established, Australian wine wasn't seen as collectable – it was all Bordeaux and Burgundy.' With these words Andrew Caillard MW, specialist wine auctioneer and executive partner of Langton's Fine Wine Auctions, opened the session on Australia's great investment wines.
The first classification of Australian wine by Langton's was published over 10 years ago, and featured just 34 wines. In 2000, the third classification was published, with 89 wines making an appearance: seven rated as Exceptional, 24 as Outstanding, 29 as Excellent and 29 as Distinguished. All the wines on the list have a proven track record, and a wine must have 12 vintages made or 10 vintages released to be considered for the classification. 'I don't believe that anything should be set in stone,' said Caillard, 'but it does give a good indication of the reliability of a wine.'
Predictably, Penfold's Grange accounts for 30% of auction market turnover in Australian wine, but the classification includes wines from all regions, red and white, and illustrates a real 'coming of age', according to Caillard. He went on to point out that while reds will always command higher prices than whites, Chardonnay is entering the mainstream secondary market, later than Riesling which has always been strong on the collectors' market. 'With Chardonnay, you either have it complex when it's young or complex when it's older – you can't have both,' he commented.
Caillard is excited by the potential of Cabernet Sauvignon: 'It's going to be bigger than Shiraz,' he predicted, praising particularly the wines coming out of Margaret River and Coonawarra. The latter region often gives softer tannins, he observed, though the same effect in Margaret River is increasingly achieved by micro–oxygenation.
The masterclass offered a rare opportunity to taste a diverse selection of the wines classified by Langton's, including three of the seven wines rated Exceptional – and to hear Caillard's opinion of the wines. The wines shown were all stunning in their categories, and the quality and ageing potential were immediately evident. Grange 1996 was a powerful end to the session. 'This wine puts my children through school, so I have to show it suitable reverence,' he joked. He described the 1996 as an extraordinary wine, from one of the great Grange years. Oak still overlays the brooding chocolate and berry flavours, but it will mesh together with time. Amy Wislocki
